Its High Performance Aluminium (HPA) frame was specially designed from the ground up and, together with its high quality components, guarantees breathtaking riding performance. This is a bike on which the boundary between uphill and down quite simply disappears.
The heart of the Stereo Hybrid 160 is a complex HPA frame. Using state-of-the-art hydroforming technology, triple butted tubing and our Smooth Welding process, the chassis boasts an astonishing stiffness-to-weight ratio as well as stunning good looks. Optimised Agile Trail Geometry (ATG) gives noticeably more room to manouevre and a lower centre of gravity. Thanks to a compact Trail Motion Rocker linkage, there's even room for a shock with piggyback reservoir. The Bosch motor's Tuned Drive Position (TDP) allows for the most compact design possible at the rear, giving more agility on the trail thanks to a wheelbase that's as short as it can be. A 148mm Boost rear hub gives the stiffness that's needed to cope with greater speeds. Other neat touches include the semi-integrated battery, the chain guide incorporated in the new CUBE design cover and clean internal cable routing.
Bosch's CX is capable of taking both bike and rider up any singletrack trail thanks to its astonishing 75Nm of available torque. Together with its 500Wh battery, the Stereo Hybrid 160 Race is your perfect partner for logging some new climbs and descents in record time. Shimano's 11-speed XT transmission with its 11-46 tooth cassette offers an incredibly wide range of gear ratios, making it easy to select the right one for any situation. And no matter how long or steep the descent, Magura's MT5 brakes deliver fade-free power, time after time. But Enduro isn't just about downhill - and that's why we've fitted the RockShox Yari suspension fork as well as Fox's Float Performance DPS EVOL shock, for great pedalling performance. Answer's robust Atac EM Boost wheels, shod with Schwalbe Hans Dampf 2.35in tyres in puncture-resistant Super Gravity trim, will look after you on the most challenging of terrain. And CUBE's 150mm Dropper Post adds even more manouevrability to ramp up the fan factor another couple of notches.
e-Bikes come in as many shapes and sizes as non-powered bikes, so you can have an electric road bike, mountain bike, city bike or general hybrid style. But, there are extra choices for you to make as well, so this is a brief guide to choosing the e-Bike best suited to your needs. For a more complete guide, please visit our Blog post on Choosing Your e-Bike.
Frame design
The primary choice is whether there is a top tube or you have a step-through frame. If you have any limitations in your hip flexibility and find it hard to raise your leg around the back wheel and saddle, then a step-through frame will be the better option for you. Given e-Bikes are heavier than other bikes, a step-through is also easier to handle if you're not very strong.
Battery power & capacity
"How far can I go between charges?" is the most common question, and the answer is "It depends", but here are some useful guidelines. Firstly, you control how quickly you deplete the battery. e-Bikes have power assist settings that you use to control acceleration and the amount of assist. If you choose "economy", it will take longer to get up to speed, and your top-end speed will be lower than if you select "turbo" mode. In addition, most e-Bikes are pedal assist, so you need to turn the pedals, and the more force you put in, the less you consume the battery charge. Finally, hills consume more power than flats, so your route selection makes a difference.
Batteries are rated in Watt hours (WH), and you can use this to compare the expected range between bikes. You simply multiply the voltage (V) by the amp hours (Ah) to calculate the Watt hours. On average, if you didn't pedal at all, each mile of flat travel will consume 15 WH. The e-Bikes we sell all have batteries with 300 - 400 WH, so that is 20 - 27 miles on a flat road with no pedaling.
Motor location and drive system
There are three primary positions for the drive system, the front wheel, the rear wheel and the crankset (to which the pedals are attached). By far the best is the crankset, as it is the most efficient, and it keeps the centre of gravity low. Motors in the wheel hubs are more common, as they are less expensive, and there are offsetting pros & cons for front versus rear wheel. drive.
Throttle or Pedal-assist
Our FreeGo e-Bikes have a throttle, so you can choose to be powered exclusively by the electric motor. Our other e-Bikes are all pedal-assist, which means the motor amplifies your own pedaling. The amount of power added by the electric motor in all cases is controlled by the setting, for example "economy" or "turbo".